Meenakshisundaram
Vaishali
ab,
Sathyaraj
Gopal
a and
Kalarical Janardhanan
Sreeram
*a
aCentre for Analysis, Testing, Evaluation and Reporting Services (CATERS), CSIR – Central Leather Research Institute, Adyar, Chennai 600 020, India. E-mail: kjsreeram@clri.res.in
bAcademy of Scientific and Innovative Research (AcSIR), Ghaziabad 201002, India
First published on 10th June 2024
The apparel industry widely uses polyurethane coated fabrics for their durability, comfort, style, and versatility. Due to the presence of multiple layers of polymers, recycling such fabrics results in low efficiency and poor yield; thus predominantly they are disposed of in landfills, resulting in severe environmental pollution. Herein we achieved a remarkably precise separation of the polyurethane (PU) coating as a neat film from the polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fabric through a surfactant-aided alkali treatment of the adhesive at room temperature. Furthermore, the dye from the fabric was continuously extracted through Soxhlet extraction resulting in 93% dye removal from the material. The PET fabric as obtained was hydrolyzed through an alkaline hydrolysis procedure with a maximum terephthalic acid (TPA) yield above 80% and purity above 90%. Dye removal from the fabric proved to be a crucial step in recycling PET fabrics as we found a notable reduction in the purity and yield of dyed PET fabrics. This work is the first to study the delamination of polymer coatings as neat films from PET fabrics commonly used in the apparel industry. It will provide useful insight and direction for recycling other such polymer-coated PET fabrics.
Sustainability spotlightThe footwear industry is embracing composite polymers to meet rising consumer fashion preferences, aiming to deliver enhanced durability, comfort, and style in footwear designs. Among the various composite polymers utilized in footwear production, PU-coated PET fabric stands out as a prominent choice. However, the industry faces a significant challenge with the substantial waste generated in manufacturing units, predominantly PU-coated PET fabrics that frequently end up in landfills. This disposal method not only contributes to environmental pollution but also significantly increases the carbon footprint associated with footwear production. In this study, we sought to valorize PU-coated PET fabrics by employing a systematic three-step approach. This method involved the precise separation of the PU coating from the PET fabric, extraction of dye from the PET fabric, and conversion into terephthalic acid. As a result, our research aligns with several UN Sustainable Development Goals, including affordable and clean energy (SDG 7), sustainable cities and communities (SDG 11), responsible consumption and production (SDG 12), and climate action (SDG 13). |
Among fabric types utilized in the manufacture of non-leather footwear, PU-coated PET (polyurethane coated polyethylene terephthalate) fabrics are the most popular and have three major components, viz., a polymeric film of 0.025–0.05 mm thickness, a tie coat, or an adhesive layer that binds the PU film to the fabric, and a fabric substrate (polyester, polyester – cotton blend, cotton, etc.). The PU film provides for the reduction of liquid, gas, and dust permeability, abrasion resistance, and any other properties that are part of consumer requirements. The fabric layer provides strength character (tensile and tear), dimensional stability, elongation, etc.4
To enable recycling as a valorization option, the requisite separation of the top polyurethane (PU) coat and the underlying fabric, interconnected by a tie coat, is essential to facilitate the efficient processing of both constituents. This segregation facilitates the potential for functional upcycling of the individual layers, thereby converting them into value-added products.5 Conversely, the absence of such layer separation necessitates resorting to depolymerization as the preferred route for recycling.6–8 The adhesive between these two layers would require a chemical treatment, as the mechanical separation, such as through the froth flotation process, is difficult due to similar densities (in the range of 1.8–2.4 g cm−3).9,10
Coated PU fabrics, such as polyester, carry disperse dyes, which require removal before recycling. While there are several methods to treat wastewater containing disperse dyes,11–13 extraction of the same from the fabric is still a challenge. Solvent extraction, a commonly reported method, is one where an equilibrium in the concentration of dye between the inside and outside of the fabric is established; it requires closed-loop process methodologies that ensure that the concentration of dye in the fabric is always higher than that of the solvent medium, for maximizing the extraction process.14,15
The base PET fabric can be recycled in a manner similar to PET bottles, where PET is turned into terephthalic acid (TPA) under acidic,16–18 alkaline19–21 or neutral conditions.22–24 The use of ionic liquids as green catalysts for the depolymerisation of PET has also been extensively studied.19,25–27 There have been efforts to improve the yield of TPA through alkaline hydrolysis of PET, such as the use of ethylene glycol and tetrahydrofuran as solvents.28
The literature on recycling of PET fabrics from PU-coated materials is notably limited. However various studies have explored innovative methods in related areas. For instance, alkaline hydrolysis of PVC-coated PET fabrics has been studied for the simultaneous recovery of PVC and TPA efficiently.8 Another approach involves the solvent-targeted recovery of polymers from multilayer plastic packaging materials, where specific solvents are employed to dissolve each component, followed by precipitation and separation of polymer layers.29 Additionally, delamination of polyamide/polyolefin multilayer films via selective glycolysis of polyurethane adhesive has proven effective in producing pure split films.10 Similarly, investigations have been conducted into the recovery of polyols and amines from bio-based PU-coated fabrics through selective solvolysis. This approach facilitates the depolymerisation of PU coatings, resulting in the effortless separation of coatings from the fabric.30 Lastly, selective disassembly of polyurethane coatings and elastane fibers via solvolysis offers a promising solution for recycling blended fabrics.6
A significant limitation observed in these studies is the prevalent reliance on the depolymerisation of one of the components to facilitate separation between the layers. For example, common approaches such as selective glycolysis and solvent-targeted methods often entail depolymerizing one component, leading to loss of polymer integrity. This presents a substantial challenge in utilizing the recovered polymers directly for producing value-added products through functional upcycling. While there is literature on stripping polyurethane coatings from metal surfaces using compositions containing alkali solutions, these are limited to applications such as paint stripping from various metal bodies.31,32 A detailed study on the development of a methodology to strip PU films from fabric bases without the loss of integrity of the polymers has not been carried out before.
The scientific literature on PET fabric recycling focuses on the chemical depolymerisation of colourless PET fabrics, neglecting exploration possibilities of the recycling of predominantly available colored PET fabrics.33,34 While technology facilitates the recycling of PET bottles, the same approach does not apply to PET fabrics, primarily because of the dye content.
Thus herein, we report a novel approach for recycling PU-coated PET fabrics focusing on precisely controlling the alkali concentration to achieve targeted hydrolysis of the adhesive layer. Through this meticulous approach, we successfully separated the PU coating and PET fabric intact. Our work underscores the importance of selective hydrolysis of the adhesive in preserving the integrity of both components. Additionally, our process includes a solvent-assisted dye removal step to further enhance fabric recyclability. Finally, alkaline hydrolysis of the PET fabric allows for the extraction of TPA, highlighting the comprehensive nature of our recycling strategy.
The PET fabric obtained after the dye stripping process was solubilized in 60:40 phenol:1,1,2,2-tetrachloroethane and the viscosity was measured. The molecular weight of the solubilized product was determined using the Mark–Houwink equation.37
The alkaline solution was analysed using matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization-time-of-flight mass spectrometry (MALDI-TOF-MS) (model – Bruker micro flex. LRF, and software – Flexcontrol Microflex) both before and after the soaking process.
The % PET conversion and yield of TPA obtained were also determined using the simple equation35
The yield of TPA obtained was calculated using the equation
The acid value of TPA and thus the purity were determined as per ISO 15030:2001; About 1 g of TPA was dissolved in 25 mL of pyridine solvent, and the solution was further diluted in 20 mL of water. This solution was titrated against 0.5 M sodium hydroxide solution to the phenolphthalein endpoint. A blank titration was also carried out excluding the material.38
The acid value of the TPA standard purchased from Merck was also determined through the same method to determine the purity of the TPA obtained. The % purity was calculated using the formula
To understand the influence of various reactions carried out on the surface features of the fabric, the contact angle was measured by the Sessile drop technique using a HOLMORC opto-mechatronics contact angle meter (HO-IAD-Cam-01B). All Fourier transform infrared spectra (FTIR) were collected using a JASCO-4700 model spectrometer (JASCO Co., Tokyo Japan). The PET samples were mounted on the attenuated total reflectance (ATR) crystal (the crystal used was zinc selenide). The FTIR measurements of the adhesive and terephthalic acid were performed against the KBr standard. All FTIR data were collected at a resolution of 4 cm−1, employing 40 scans in the wavelength range of 400–4000 cm−1. The morphology of PET surfaces was examined using a CLARA GMU field emission scanning electron microscope (FE-SEM) operating in ultra-high resolution mode from M/s. TESCAN, based in Brno, Czech. The specimens underwent gold coating via a sputter coater (from M/s. Quorum Technologies) for surface preparation. To determine the elemental composition of the PET fabric, energy dispersive X-ray analysis (EDAX) was performed using an EDAX Octane Plus Probe. The microscopic images of the adhesive molecules were captured using a modular stereo microscope model: DZ.5040 from Euromex, Holland.
The DSC analysis (performed under a nitrogen atmosphere, in the temperature range of 25–350 °C with a heating ramp rate of 5 °C min−1, using a Q200 spectrometer, M/s. TA Instruments, UK) provided clues to the changes in crystallinity of the fabric on stripping off the dye. The thermogravimetric analysis was performed on a thermogravimetric analyzer (TGA, M/s SETARAM Themys One+) with an N2 flow of 20 mL min−1 in the temperature range of 25–1000 °C with a heating rate of 5 °C min−1. The terephthalic acid obtained from the PET fabric and TPA standard was subjected to X-ray diffraction (XRD) analysis (Malvern PANalytical, Empyrean Series 3, UK) using Ni-filtered Cu Kα radiation (λ = 1.5418 Å, 40 kV and 30 mA) in the range of 10–80° with a scan rate of 4° min−1. Nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectra of the samples were recorded using DMSO-d6 on a Bruker Avance III HD, 400 MHz narrow bore FT-NMR spectrometer equipped with a broadband diffusion probe (Diff-BB) to verify the chemical structure of the obtained TPA.
Entry | NaOH:SDSa (wt%) | Contact angle on PET surface | Time taken to remove the coating from the fabric (minutes) |
---|---|---|---|
a The SDS concentration was increased from 0.5 to 20 wt% so as to vary the NaOH:SDS ratio as 1:0.5, 1:1, 1:1.5 and 1:2 in entries # 1 to 4 respectively. | |||
1 | 1:0.5 | 114 ± 2° | 540 |
2 | 4:4 | 106 ± 2° | 120 |
3 | 5:7.5 | 101 ± 3° | 90 |
4 | 10:20 | 92 ± 2° | 10 |
The contact angle between water and the coated fabric is expected to change as a function of alkali and surfactant concentration.40 As can be seen from Table 1, a decrease in the water contact angle was observed with an increase in the concentration of the NaOH/SDS mixture. Notably at a NaOH:SDS weight ratio of 10:20, we achieved the lowest contact angle value of 92 ± 2°. Thus, the alkali–surfactant system lowers the surface tension on the polymer surface facilitating the penetration of alkali through the fabric.41 Even though the contact angles remained above 90°, potentially due to the increased hydrophobic nature of the PET fabric, this was sufficient to produce the required wettability for our system as the PU coating was removed within 10 minutes of soaking at this weight ratio at 30 °C (Fig. 3(a)). Continuing to extend the soaking duration or increasing the alkaline concentration resulted in the hydrolysis of not only the adhesive but also the PU top coating, as depicted in Fig. 3(b).
As the temperature of the medium increased from 30 °C to 60 °C, for a given concentration of NaOH, the time taken for detachment decreased (Fig. 3(c)). However, a visual assessment of the fabric indicated a shape distortion. To optimize the temperature and the extent of detachment with variable concentration of NaOH (at 20 wt% SDS concentration) visual assessment of the fabric was carried out and the results are presented in Fig. 3(d). Further confirmatory evidence for the role of temperature was obtained from an assessment of weight loss of the PU-coated PET fabric, which varied from 0.19% to 4% (Fig. 3(c)). Thus, definite contact time, temperature, and concentration of alkali ensure selective hydrolysis of the adhesive layer alone while leaving the PU coating and PET fabric intact.
We observed traces of the adhesive on the surface of the PET fabric when hydrolysis was carried out at 5 wt% NaOH (Fig. S1(b)†); thus we confirmed the nature of the adhesive through FTIR analysis. Bands corresponding to –NH, –C–N, and –C–O stretching frequencies observed in the spectra were attributed to the PU adhesive42,43 (Fig. S1(a)†).
As this study represented a pioneering effort in comprehensively investigating the separation of the PU coating from the PET fabric via adhesive disruption, it was imperative to validate the process's underlying mechanism. MALDI-TOF mass spectrometry analysis was conducted to achieve a thorough understanding and obtain a clear depiction of the process.44 Specifically, the alkali solution underwent MALDI-TOF analysis both before and after the hydrolysis reaction. Before soaking the fabric in sodium hydroxide solution, the mass spectrum of the solution did not reveal any discernible mass-to-charge (m/z) peaks (data not shown), which is attributed to the inherently low molecular weight of the analyte. Post-soaking, the alkali solution exhibited well-defined m/z peaks within the range of 700, characterized by minimal background noise as shown in Fig. 4(b). The possible molecules responsible for the observed mass values in MALDI-TOF from the PU hydrolysis are also shown in Fig. 4(b). The emergence of distinct m/z peaks in the post-soaking alkali solution strongly supports the hydrolysis process of the PU adhesive. Urethanes, known for their low hydrolytic stability, undergo pronounced hydrolysis in the presence of a potent alkali, augmented by the surfactant resulting in the formation of carbamic acid and alcohol end terminal oligomeric species (Fig. 4(a)).39,45
Fig. 4 (a) Hydrolysis mechanism of the PU adhesive and (b) MALDI-TOF MS of NaOH solution after soaking the PUCF material. |
The concerted action of sodium hydroxide and the surfactant facilitates the efficient hydrolysis of the PU adhesive, resulting in the dissolution of hydrolysates in the solution.46 This observation provides valuable insights into the chemical processes underlying the detachment of the PU coating from the PET fabric, underscoring the significance of alkali-induced hydrolysis in this system.
The intrinsic viscosity of the PET fabric was determined and from that the molecular weight of the fabric was calculated. There was no notable change in the molecular weight of the fabrics (Fig. S4†) before and after extraction of the dye, which indicated that the DMF selectively disturbed the intermolecular interactions between the dye and fibre structure, leaving the macromolecule backbone of the PET fabric intact.51
During the dye stripping process, the degree of crystallinity of the PET fabric exhibited a slight decrease (Table 2). This can be attributed to the interruption of dye–fabric interactions in the amorphous regions of the fabric by the DMF solvent, while the crystalline regions almost remained unaffected. Consequently, these dye-stripped fabrics have the potential to be mechanically melt-spun, allowing to produce new fibres.52
Sample | T f (°C) | ΔHf (J g−1) | X c (%) |
---|---|---|---|
a X c – degree of crystallinity (%). | |||
PET 1 | 252.53 | 69.88 | 49.9 |
PET 1(S) | 254.53 | 59.68 | 42.6 |
PET 2 | 252.35 | 50.05 | 35.7 |
PET 2(S) | 252.4 | 38.39 | 27.4 |
PET 3 | 253.33 | 51.57 | 36.8 |
PET 3(S) | 253.03 | 45.59 | 32.5 |
Fig. 6 (a) Image of undyed PET fabric dyed using C.I disperse blue dye through the carrier method. (b) Absorbance of dyed PET fabric, dye stripped and undyed PET fabric. |
S. no. | PET label | TPA label | TPA yield (%) | TPA purity (%) | Remarks |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | PET 1 | TPA1 | 48.85 | 57.2 | TPA – pink solid |
2 | PET 1(S) | TPA2 | 82.78 | 92.19 | TPA white solid |
3 | PET 2 | TPA3 | 47.63 | 56.08 | TPA rosy brown solid |
4 | PET 2(S) | TPA4 | 76.33 | 91.43 | TPA white solid |
5 | PET 3 | TPA5 | 52.34 | 53.74 | TPA cream yellow solid |
6 | PET 3(S) | TPA6 | 82.41 | 91.18 | TPA white solid |
To confirm the purity of the extracted terephthalic acid, a range of physicochemical characterization experiments were conducted on the obtained compound. These supplementary analyses serve to enhance the assessment of purity beyond the scope of the ISO standard methodology, offering a comprehensive understanding of the compound's properties. The FTIR spectra of TPA 2 (having maximum yield and purity) were compared with those of the terephthalic acid standard (TPA Std). All the IR stretching bands of the obtained terephthalic acid match with those of the standard. A broad –OH stretching is seen in the range of 2500–3000 cm−1. Aromatic –CH stretching is observed at 3061 cm−1. The –CO stretching of the acid group is found at 1688 cm−1. The –C–O stretching frequency is at 1282 cm−1.53 The –OH wagging is observed between 700 and 800 cm−1 (ref. 54) (Fig. 7(a)). The thermogravimetric analysis showed that the mass losses for TPA 2 obtained from the PET fabric and TPA standard followed similar trends (Fig. 7(b)). There was a rapid degradation (measured in terms of weight loss) beyond 300 °C in TPA 2 which was also seen in the TPA standard.54 The XRD pattern of the synthesized terephthalic acid also matches well with that of the terephthalic acid standard as shown in Fig. 7(c).
The heating and cooling profiles of TPA2 closely resemble those of the TPA Std (Fig. 7(d)), with the exception of a minor transition at 370 °C. This anomaly, inconsistent with a melting point, is likely attributable to either impurities or an instrumental artifact. Overall, TPA2 demonstrates a strong correlation with the TPA Std, suggesting high purity and consistency in its synthesis. The 1H-NMR of synthesised terephthalic acid exhibited a singlet at around 8 ppm corresponding to aromatic CH protons. One broad singlet was observed at around 13.2 ppm corresponding to the OH proton of the carboxylic group, which clearly matches with that of the standard55 (Fig. 7(e)).
The novelty of the work is rooted in its capability to completely remove the polyurethane (PU) coating from the PU-coated PET fabric while preserving its integrity. This facilitates the conversion of the PU coating into alternative value-added products through functional modifications, diverging from conventional approaches reliant on depolymerization. The continuous extraction of dye through Soxhlet extraction was found to enhance the value of resulting terephthalic acid, giving way for extending the process methodology to other multi-layered fabrics.
Footnote |
† Electronic supplementary information (ESI) available. See DOI: https://doi.org/10.1039/d4su00136b |
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